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11:00pm, No more blue nights and red skies.FW17-18

Reverse Lines3SS17

11:00pm, No more blue nights and red skies.

Defined by a gentle and confident sense of femininity, Gioia Seghers’ new collection is a study in contrasts, pairing sharply tailored lines with warm tones and cozy fabrics, enhancing the tactile and sensual dimension of her work.

Outerwear is one of the designer's key strengths, evidenced by her range of coats and jackets. A belted wool overcoat features a funnel neck and generous belt, underlining a longing for ease and protection. A cocoon-like stripy hooded coat has the welcoming feel of a beloved robe, made in wool with a contrasting trim. Simple and luxurious, a collarless wool and cashmere style is perfect for everyday wear, expressing the designer's acute understanding of practicality and urban life. A short jacket in tweedy wool fastens asymmetrically, reinterpreting the classic bomber shape.

Seghers uses her signature eyelets and drawstrings to fasten and drape garments freely, allowing the wearer to enjoy transformable garments. Inspired by masculine staples, her collarless shirts and roomy pants keep their femininity intact, using transparency or playful pleats to great effect. Dresses are also key within the line, from a statement number in red crepe with a scarf detail to a draped black jersey dress exposing one shoulder. A hooded dress featuring a single zip and multiple drawstrings adds sophistication to a familiar style, while hand knit jackets and sweaters emphasize the beauty of imperfection. If the designer's take on sensuality is subdued and subtle, her color palette is bold and uplifting, from midnight blue and bright red, to warm burgundy, calming brown and electric blue. Key fabrics include silk, wool, cotton, tweed, cashmere and acetate.

Credits

Gioia Seghers (fashion designer), Ismaël Moumin (photographer), Adeline @bemodelmanagement (model), Noel Inocencio (make-up), Philippe Pourhashemi (text), Marine Gabaut (styling)